If you heard a pop it’s likely the ICCU, and if it is then welcome to being offline for 3 months. Mines been in the shop since September, they replaced the ICCU (after if failed after the recall which does nothing) then they dropped a screw into the battery housing so now I’m waiting another month for more parts because they have to take the whole battery apart to get the screw they dropped. Every stage takes them weeks they can’t even order a part effectively it takes them 2 weeks just to put the order in. Hyundai’s service is so terrible they are a shitshow of a company.
How they get away with this ICCU bullshit I really don’t know. The part they are replacing all the failed ones with is the same part with the design fault that failed in the first place.
Alby said:
Do you have breakdown assist with your car,? those guys will be able to boost the battery enough to get you moving again.
I think i do but I can run a jumper cable from my car in the garage to it, so i’m going to try that to get the battery enough juice to at least move it off the driveway
Lyle said: @Fielder
Get a new 12v and your probably good. If you have 80k miles I’m sure the oem 12v is just toast and not holding a charge.
We are at 70K miles and still on the original 12V battery as well, ours will probably die one day soon but it’s still saying 95% SOH on a battery tester.
@Val
I would think the health of the 12v in our cars varies, some I5s sat on lots for months and may have been boosted etc. I got mine right after being shipped and have 40k km with no issues. So seeing these posts I think it just varies and the oem batteries aren’t the best. Also they don’t last forever either, 3-5yrs is typical, and my wife’s battery just died in her mazda 3 which turned 5 years lol so right on time.
@Lyle
Yes last new car we bought was a 2015 WRX and the battery died around 38k miles just past the 36k mile warranty. So our Ioniq has outlasted that by a long way.
@Lyle
You may be on to something about sitting on the lot vs not sitting… I was an early adopter and took delivery of my HI 5 back in March of 2022. It didn’t sit on the lot at all. I’m still on my original battery at 24k miles. I’ve monitored the 12v state of charge with the CarScanner app and the SoC goes as low as 80 and as high as 95. Voltage has been good.
I know it will die and plan to get an AGM battery.
@Kim
Indeed! Hearing about these ioniq 5s sitting for months in some states kinda explains it a bit. Especially when dealers have the vehicles at random charge levels, and the 12v being subject to doors being opened and closed etc, the iccu issue as well, it really doesn’t help the 12v. Lol and a likely not the best battery to boot.
The latest software “update” was a recall, so you would have needed to bring the car in for that. Looks like you don’t have that taken care of yet. This recall includes an update to the ICCU software that improves upon the 12V battery charging logic.
But if your car is 2 years old or older (including the time it’s been sitting on the dealer’s lot), then your battery may just be at the end of its life.
hkg needs to fix this! software updates don’t improve coolant leaks from bad welds, or burned out mosfets from thermal loading. please 1) tell us the real issue, and 2) give us a warranty fix. slowing the charge curve and max current aren’t going to make this mission-critical problem disappear.
If you 12v isn’t complete toast yet, you should be able to boost it to get the car moving again. Just a couple days ago I went to my local battery place and bought a new AGM. Swapped it out in the parking lot. Car is perfect again. Hyundai OEM battery sucks as much as its warranty does. To swap the battery, pull the plastic cover on the right of the frunk. The post clamps use a 10mm socket, the plate on the front edge at the base is a 12mm. Disconnect the negative, open the fuse box to the right, and pull up on the high voltage disconnect. (Yellow tag) It clicks up to disconnect. Then disconnect the positive (Red). Remove the clamping plate at the bottom, swap in the new battery, push the battery back and to the right to seat it, reattach the plate, connect the red terminal, push the high voltage disconnect back down. (It won’t be powered until the 12v is fully connected) Then quickly attach the negative on the post, and tighten the nut down. Recommend wearing some non conductive rubber gloves while working. It’s really pretty simple. The only extra step I didn’t know about previously was the high power disconnect in the fuse box. This video discusses all the steps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mG7clQ0VtAk