Planning a trip with your EV this winter? Be prepared for a significant reduction in your vehicle’s range, especially in cold weather. For instance, a 2024 AWD model might only get about 212 miles at a full charge when temperatures drop to around 25°F. This can affect your travel plans, particularly on longer journeys, so plan accordingly.
I’d also add that the stock tires aren’t the greatest in winter weather either, at least on my 2024 Limited AWD. I may be spoiled coming from a Subaru Outback and highly rated Pirelli snow rated all seasons, but I was kind of surprised at how easy the stock tires slip on wet roads. I’m looking to replace them for my own piece of mind over the next 3 years of my lease.
@Luca
This is VERY true. We set out in the morning after the first snow and freeze here. Every bridge we went over had tire slippage that was disconcerting (esp with LKAS on). I learned that lesson quickly. Otherwise, it was a smooth drive and with AWD enabled via Sport Mode in rougher patches, I didn’t have any more issues.
We will see how they fare when it gets really cold and snowing in another month or so.
When you do replace them, go for 18" wheels as well if you can work that into your budget. That will slightly increase your range, or at least make up for the range reduction that you’d normally see from stickier winter tires.
@Luca
Wait until you are lightly braking when crossing railroad tracks!
@Luca
Yeah I recently bit the bullet to get some X-Ice Snow tires on my SEL AWD. Supposedly they are “EV ready” and are rated even better on rolling resistance than the stock tires according to Consumer Reports
@Luca
I just got All-weather Remedy WRG5s for Tahoe 
I wish Nokian added foam to these but oh well.
I should also note that I saw about a total of 180mi range on a recent road trip in 15f on relatively flat interstate 90% of time at 70-75 mph. Sure I could have gone slower, but time and safety are important real world factors. The cold weather has a tremendous impact on range that shouldn’t be underestimated on longer trips. ABRP, with premium subscription, was very accurate in its estimates of SOC at arrival (uses weather, car, and elevation data). I highly recommend the app with the subscription if you’re going to be relying on multiple charges to get to and from your destination.
@Corey
I see similar numbers. This past weekend on the interstate I was seeing 2.0 mi/kW at 72 mph and 26 degrees. There was approximately a 15 mph headwind. So total range of ~155 miles and a usable range of much less using the 10-80% charging rule.
@nellysmith
>This past weekend on the interstate I was seeing 2.0 mi/kW at 72 mph and 26 degrees. There was approximately a 15 mph headwind.
That headwind is just as much of a range eater as the cold (if not more), travelling at 72mph with a 15mph headwind is aerodynamically like travelling at 87mph.
@Valen
Yeah, it was killer. But I was still one of the slowest vehicles on the road!
nellysmith said:
@Valen
Yeah, it was killer. But I was still one of the slowest vehicles on the road!
I saw similar consumption traveling at 80mph in rain with a decent headwind on a recent roadtrip around 50°F. Aerodynamic drag hugely impacts the consumption of this car more than anything else because of the relatively blocky shape.
Where low temps really hit range is at lower speeds, my city range has gone from ~350 miles to like ~250 miles, highway range has been impacted to a lesser extent.
@Corey
Have you thought about getting a car adapter/module, so it can “real time” monitor your usage vs destination?
I keep going back and forth on it, but having a comma ia in the car at times. It would make it a “struggle” (I’m lazy) to switch between the too.
@Zeke
So, I have a comma 3x. Installed last Friday. It is set to use the car’s radar and longitudinal control, so the gas and regen with ACC was the same as it would be sans comma device. You don’t need to occupy the OBD port with the new Comma 3x devices - they get all their power from the camera port. The only trade off is that you can’t power on the Comma without the car being powered on, which means you need to provide alternative 65W+ power to the device to changes settings that require the car being off. That hasn’t been a problem for me as I have a 65W USB C adapter that I can plug into the V2L port in the backseat if I need to make those types of changes.
I have thought about getting the neat bluetooth OBD sensors, but TBH, I don’t like the idea of a device that is constantly drawing power until I get the ICCU recall completed in this car.
@Corey
I put mine on an extension cable with an on/off switch. My Veepeak BLE+ Bluetooth reader is plugged into that and it is at a location where I can see its blue light when it’s on (and the switch is on). Having said that, I left it on many days/nights, and it didn’t matter much, even before I got Recall 272 done.
@Corey
i use the obd scanner to check battery temperatures when preconditioning. leave it plugged in, does not drain 12v. i bring my comma3x inside to change settings, but i am mostly satisfied now and hardly do that anymore. i still have the c3x plugged into obd (i have a splitter), but its not needed and will probably remove the cable. i wish it was more convenient to fiddle w comma settings. using a driving simulator might generate better models.
@Zeke
It’s well worth it just to get calibrated consumption at least and then you can plug your comma back in.
@Corey
0-12F - 162 miles going 62 mph and heat set at 62 - arrived at charger with 14%
- a drive from two weeks ago.
@Corey
Id be stranded without ABRP ngl
Yeah my husband has a business meeting tomorrow 70 miles from our house and there’s no chargers for miles where it is. I recommended that he take the ICE but I doubt I can convince him since it sucks to drive by comparison
Edit to add: on the plus side, we rented a Tesla Model Y while traveling over thanksgiving. That thing lost 7-8% overnight every night in the cold. Our Ioniq lost 1% the entire 5 days we were gone.
I’d also note not to use eco mode at all in the winter. Eco mode basically just tells the car to stay in rear wheel drive.
If it’s cold/icy/snowy hold the drive mode for Snow mode. Might not be as efficient but it’s going to be a safer drive.
I’m also learning to watch the battery percent in cold weather way more than the miles to zero. That thing fluctuates like crazy. Mine dropped 50 miles and then went back up 30 some after some highway driving.