We had a pretty bad ice storm with several inches of snow followed by freezing rain. This caused a major power outage from around 3 AM to 3 PM on Monday. My wife works from home, so staying connected was critical.
I used a $15 DC inverter (120W/200W) that plugs into the lighter socket of a car. I used it with the Leaf before and now with the Niro EV. It powered a laptop, monitor, fibre router/modem, a cell signal booster, a lamp (with an LED bulb), and phone chargers. It was a lifesaver during the outage.
I love this car so much. It’s always a joy to sit in it and see the interior.
I have a mid-trim 2023 model, and my only gripe is the lack of V2L. I didn’t realize you could use the lighter socket to get at least 150W at 110V. Thanks for sharing this tip.
I used to own a Leaf and now drive a Niro. I installed a 1500W inverter directly to the 12V system under the hood. It worked great for 10 years and saved us in many power outages. Now with V2L, things are even better.
Skylar said: @Zem
Doesn’t that drain the 12V battery, or does the car keep it charged while in Utility Mode?
I’m not entirely sure about the Niro since I have V2L now, but with the Leaf, the 12V battery would charge as long as the car was on. I imagine Utility Mode or even just turning on the ignition in the Niro would work similarly.
My setup is EV in Utility Mode → battery clamps (though a 12V internal socket works, just with less power) → Bluetti AC200MAX battery generator → 30A RV connector → generator plug adapter → main power panel (via interlock kit). This lets me run single-pole breakers to power things like the furnace (natural gas), tankless water heater (natural gas), fridge, freezer, and internet.
This setup kept us warm and with hot showers during the NW bomb cyclone a while back. The AC200MAX takes the load, and the EV trickle-charges it at about 120W through the clamps. With an extra setup, I’ve even managed to hook up a second EV for around 200W total.
@Dakota
That’s impressive. I’ve been thinking of upgrading to something like this but need an inverter that supports double poles for an ASHP (about 2-2.5kW). Using the home’s wiring with a transfer switch seems like a practical middle ground between simple inverters with extension cords and costly home battery systems.
@Lennie
Yeah, it works well except for appliances needing double poles. Most natural gas appliances use very little energy—my tankless water heater only needs 70W to power the exhaust fan. Hot showers make a huge difference during outages.
That said, I’ve been considering a dual-fuel generator running on propane as an extra backup. The current setup works and is quiet since it’s all in the garage, but it’s not ideal for longer outages. A small generator to recharge the AC200MAX every other day could help weather longer situations.
@Dakota
We live in a fairly built-up area, so power outages don’t usually last more than 12 hours. The last big ice storm in ’09 was similar. That’s probably why I haven’t invested in a bigger setup.
I should’ve gotten the propane camp stove out to boil water, but I didn’t plan that far. Our 50-gallon water heater provided 4-5 hot showers, and I turned the small bathroom into a makeshift sauna by closing the door during showers. The house temperature dropped from 67°F overnight to 62°F by mid-afternoon yesterday. Very relieved to have power back now.
Denny said:
Doesn’t the car have a 120V 1500W plug in the back seat?
Not on the ’24 Wind model in the US. That would’ve been great for something like running an induction hob to boil water. We had to make do with warm drinks using 150°F water from our electric heater, which I turned up from 120°F before the storm.
